Trip to Portugal and Spain: Days 6 and 7 (Seville)

Getting there

Initially I considered driving a rental car but that would have been a 6.5hr trip and I did not want to deal with rentals across countries. I came across a direct flight via RyanAir. My kids warned me about flying RyanAir as they have the reputation of being one of the worst airlines in the world. I thought it couldn't be worse than Spirit Airlines and I was right. I booked the family plus fare which includes 4 pieces of 10kg luggages plus one 20kg luggage all of which have to be checked in. It ended up costing US$70 per person. The flight was on time, our luggage was delivered so I was actually quite happy with the experience. The only nuisance was that while checking with the RyanAir application I was prompted to upload COVID requirements to travel to Spain. They redirected me to download the official government application from Spain: SpTh. Based on the country I was traveling from (Portugal) I was not required to provide any COVID documentation, but the application required uploading one, so I ended up uploading my vaccination records and nobody asked me anything about them.

Unlike Portugal, Uber service was not available. The ride sharing options were FreeNow and Cabify. I ended up using Cabify. It was slightly more expensive compared to Uber in Portugal, but still much cheaper compared to Uber fares in the US. Most of their cars, if not all, were black Skoda Superb which is very similar to the Volkswagen Passat and with plenty of room for luggage.

Where to eat

We arrived in the middle of a heat wave. Temperatures reached 42C/100F which we were told is more common in July/August, but not in early June. It was also a very dry heat. We took a Cabify into downtown. Some streets within downtown are very narrow and our driver insisted in getting us as close as possible, even though we offered to walk. We tried to eat at Bodega Santa Cruz, one of our recommended stops but it was way too crowded. We ended up eating at La Sacristia, which ended up being pretty good. From our experience, you can't go wrong with a restaurant with tapas, which most restaurants at Spain offer.

Seville Cathedral and Giralda Tower

This was our first stop after having lunch. I chose not to purchase the tickets online because we didn't know exactly at what time we would arrive to the Giralda Tower which is what requires a timed entry, but thankfully there was no ticket line around 5:30pm. The inside of the Cathedral is magnificent. You can find the tomb of Christopher Columbus inside the Cathedral.

Christopher Columbus tomb

The access to the Giralda Tower is from inside the Cathedral. They didn't seem too strict about the entry time, but they do scan the tickets. The views from the top are great and unblocked. Instead of stairs you climb via ramps and they are wider than your average church tower, so if you are not a fan of climbing towers, this is an easier one that you should consider.

The Giralda Tower

View from the top of The Giralda

Because of the extreme heat, we decided to head back to our hotel and enjoy a swim in the pool which was very refreshing. Afterwards we had dinner at a nearby restaurant at a coffeeshop called Ananas and was surprisingly good and healthy.

Plaza de España

On our second day, we decided to walk to Plaza de España which was 2km from our hotel. Even though it was almost 80F in the morning, it was much bearable than the day before. Plaza de España is a must to visit and walk around. It is also a must for any Star Wars fans. The architecture is gorgeous and it has so much detail that it will take several visits to fully appreciate. 

Real Alcazar

From the Plaza we walked to Real Alcazar, which is a Moorish Royal Palace and another must see destination. We had bought tickets ahead of time so that saved us some time entering. The palace is beautiful with so much detail and multiple rooms to see. Here is just a sample of the rooms you will see inside the palace.

More to eat

We then stopped to get lunch at Bodeguita Reyes Antonio Romero. It was one of the dining recommendations we got and it was well worth it. They have multiple locations, the one we visited is in between the Cathedral and the Plaza de Toros. We arrived around 1pm which is early for lunch and the place was empty, so I was afraid we were not on the right place. We had several tapas as well as montaditos (small sandwiches), they were all really good. We tried morcilla, piripi, chorizo, bacalao and their jamon serrano was one of the best we had in our trip. 

Before heading back to our hotel we stopped by Amorino to get a treat. It is right across the Cathedral. We then headed to Iglesia de El Salvador which is included with the Cathedral tickets. Unfortunately because it was Sunday, it is not open for visits, so we missed it, but be sure to check the schedule before heading there as it is a few blocks away.

<< Days 4-5 (Porto) | Trip Itinerary | Days 8-9 (Valencia)

Trip to Portugal and Spain: Days 4 and 5 (Porto)

Getting to Porto

We had initially considered renting a one way car to Porto, but after learning there were inexpensive bus fares from Liston to Porto we decided to travel by bus. Specifically we used FlixBus again and paid  84 EUR for 4 tickets. Our bus departed 11:30am from Porto and arrived close to 3pm at the Camelias bus stop, which was a short walk from our hotel at Sao Bento.

Where to eat

One recommendation from our Uber driver was to eat at Cafe Santiago, and try the Francesinha which is a typical dish from Porto. I actually thought it was pretty good, my for the rest of my family it was just OK. They will have this dish at most restaurants so you will have plenty of chances to try it even if you can't make it to Cafe Santiago.

Visiting the shore

Our first day we decided to do some sightseeing by walking from Sao Bento towards the shore. We walk past the Santo Ildefonso Church which is beautiful. Just down the street we stopped by Sao Bento terminal which is a must see.

On our way down to the shore we stopped by Chocolateria Ecuador and had a sample of their chocolate truffle with a glass of Porto wine, they were both delicious.

We then made it down to the shore and walked along towards the Luis I bridge and cross through the lower walkway. The view from across the river is even better as you can see from this postcard worthy picture.

On that side is where you can find most of the wineries, however they were closed as they open primarily in the morning through early afternoon. We ended up having dinner at Tabernha do Manel which was pretty good. 

We then headed up the hill toward Mirador da Ribeira to be able to view the sunset near the upper end of Ponte Luis I bridge. This was another beautiful view of Porto. We ended up heading back to our hotel walking as we were only about a mile away.

Livraria Lello

The next day we started by visiting Livraria Lello which is one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world and allegedly J.K. Rowling was inspired while writing the first Harry Potter books. You will need to buy tickets to enter but you can buy them online and will save you from standing on the longer line to enter. Next to the bookstore we stopped by one of our favorite ice cream shops: Amorino. 

A couple blocks away we visited Igreja do Carmo and just a block away we stopped by the Museum of Science and Natural History. Because it was under renovation, they only had to exhibits open, but admission was free so we decided to take a quick peek.

Igreja dos Clerigos

Our next stop was Igreja dos Clerigos which is a must see. It also requires timed tickets to go up the church tower. My wife says that every church that has a tower we must climb it, but this one in particular is a must see because as you are going up towards the tower they make you go around the church so you get to see the church from some very unique sides and the view from the top of the tower does not disappoint.

Igreja dos Clérigos

View from Torre dos Clerigos

Casa da Musica

My son wanted to visit Casa da Musica and because we had some extra time we decided to venture there. This location is about 2 miles aways from downtown so we decided to take the bus on our way there. Before entering it was lunch time and we ate outside on a restaurant called Ghrelador do Boavista 39. We found this restaurant by luck and my wife chose it because she said it looks like this is a place where most locals come to it. We had one of the best meals of our trip here, so I definitely recommend it if you head out this way.

You can only visit the inside of Casa da Musica by tour and the day we visited they only had tours at 11am and 4pm. Luckily we got there shortly before 4pm. I would stay this is a must see if you have musicians in your family, otherwise you may not enjoy it as much, but it is certainly a very unique music venue and the tour guide made it a very insightful visit. I would definitely would recommend attending a concert there if there is one and have the time.

Inside Casa da Musica

Spiritus

While we were visiting Tower dos Clerigos, they were promoting the Spiritus light show and we decided to buy tickets. We came back for the show in the evenings and it was really worth it. It was a little awkward to view it inside a church, but it was designed specifically for this church and it was by far better than the overly promoted Immersive Van Gogh.

<< Day 3 (Sintra) | Trip Itinerary | Days 6-7 (Seville) >>

Trip to Portugal and Spain: Day 3 (Sintra)

Sintra was not initially in our list of must see destinations until a friend strongly recommended it, and she was right. Sintra is about 25km away from Lisbon and about a 30 minute drive without traffic.

Getting to Sintra

We were initially going to take a train to Sintra but it would have taken us nearly an hour to get there from hour hotel. After seeing that it we could get an Uber for around 25 EUR and get there in 30 minutes we decided to go for that. I would still recommend requesting that the Uber drops you at the train station instead of downtown Sintra since that is where you can easily buy the local bus tickets.

Moving around Sintra

We love to walk when possible, but unfortunately the roads to the Sintra castles are very narrow and steep. From our research we learned that the best way to get around the Sintra castles was using local bus 434. We tried buying bus tickets ahead of time, but the agency website would not take my credit card because it assumed a local postal code which does not match the format for US zip codes. When we got to the train station, on the outside you will see the signs to get on the bus (#434). Before boarding the bus there were agents who you could buy the ticket from for EUR 11.50. This includes unlimited usage per day, as well as other routes, e.g. 435 to get to Quinta de Regaleira and Palace of Monserrate, as well as the bus route  that can take you to Cascais (1hr away). We heard great things about Cascais, but from my experience there would not be enough time to visit both places on the same day. 

Pena Palace

Pena Palace is a must see within Sintra. We bought tickets ahead of time on their website. I bought the ticket for both the park and the palace. The Palace ticket requires a timed entry, but not the park. I would allow at least 1 hour for the palace time entry from the time you estimate you will reach the Sintra train station. Bus 434 has frequent stops, almost every 10 minutes, but it takes about 20 minutes for the bus to get to the Park entrance and then another 20 minutes to walk up to the castle. The palace is beautiful on the inside, but if you are limited in time I would suggest only buying the park ticket. There is a lot you can see from the outside of the Palace. Also you will see from the picture that it was very foggy and windy. We were told by our Uber driver that is a typical Sintra wether and eve though it was warm in Lisbon, Sintra weather can be 10C/20F degrees lower, so bring a light jacket.

Where to eat

Our Uber driver recommended 2 spots. "Casa do Preto" we were told people from Lisbon come here just to eat here. This is towards the city entrance, but bus 434 stops there. We wanted to eat there but to maximize our time we decided to go with his second recommendation which was "O Melhor Croissant da Minha Rua", which means "the best croissant of my street" and indeed they were likely the best croissants in the area.

Palace of Monserrate

We chose to visit Palace of Monserrate next as it looked beautiful in the pictures and indeed it was. However getting there was not as easy. You have to take bus 435 which was a smaller bus and with much less frequency. We waited about 30 minutes on the way in and another 25 minutes on the way back, so if you are limited in time I would not recommend going here.

Inside Palace of Monserrate

On the way our bus stopped by Quinta de Regaleira which we would have stopped if the bus stopped more frequently. 

The other castle we wanted to visit if we had more time was the Moorish Castle which we left for our next visit to Sintra. We took an Uber back to Lisbon and since it was rush hour (around 5pm), it took a little longer to get back, but nothing too crazy.

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