Tuesday, July 18, 2023

Mexico City Travel Guide

I often get asked by friends when visiting Mexico City for tips on places to visit and restaurants to eat. I grew up in Mexico and I still visit Mexico City 1-2 times per year, so this list should be fairly current, but I will try to keep it up to date based on my most recent travels. Most of these recommendations are for Downtown Mexico City. This tends to be a relatively safe city. My recommendation is to stay alongside Reforma Avenue. The area from Bosque de Chapultepec towards Palacio de Bellas Artes (through Reforma and then Juarez Avenue) and then to Zocalo through Madero street is "tourist safe" for the most part.

Landmarks to visit

Chapultepec Castle

This is a must see, right in the heart of Chapultepec. You can can walk up the hill and you can also visit the castle. Entry is free on Sundays and they're closed on Mondays.
Chapultepec Castle

Museo Nacional de Antropología

Another must see and one of my favorite museums in the world. Do not miss seeing the Aztec Calendar and the Papantla Flyers (outside the museum).

The Angel of Independence

This is hard to miss, located right on the heart of Reforma Avenue on your way from Chapultepec towards Bellas Artes.
Independence Angel

Palacio de Bellas Artes

Also a must see. Check the schedules as they may have performances while you visit.

Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral

This is right across the Zocalo, also a must see when you head there.

Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe

Even if you are not Catholic, this is one of the most visited shrines in the world. It is the site of the appearance of our Lady of Guadalupe. I suggest you take an Uber there, even though it is not far from downtown, with traffic it can take up to an hour to get there.

Teotihuacan Pyramids

Obviously Teotihuacán pyramids are a must see if you have the time. It will take almost a full day to visit as it is about an hour away. You can check the rates for Uber, otherwise I recommend asking your hotel if they have any local tours, it may be safer that way.

Places to eat downtown

El Califa

I've been to these 2 locations, both are great, it just depends which is closer to you. Some suggestions on what to order:
  • Chicharrón de queso
  • Gringa de pastor
  • Gringa de arrachera (steak)
  • Tacos al pastor (specialty)
    • Pastor is pork meat prepared on a "trompo" (similar to how they prepare meat for gyros)

El Cardenal

They have very traditional Mexican food, I recommend mole poblano or tamal de mixiote, but everything we had here was delicious.


Cafe De Tacuba

This is very historic. There's a Mexican band named after this cafe.

La Parroquia de Veracruz

This is located 2 blocks away from el Zocalo. I am originally from Veracruz, so now you can enjoy a taste of Veracruz here! Some recommendations on what to try:
  • Café lechero - it's a tradition how they serve it
  • Gorditas dulce con salsa de mole
  • Bomba con nata (traditional pastry)
Here is the address:

The House of Tiles - Sanborns Casa de Azulejos

This is a historic landmark. Sanborns is a national chain of restaurants, they used to be better restaurants and not nearly as good compared to the ones above, but food is decent if you are near one. This location is worth visiting even if you don't eat here:

El Bajío 

Also serves traditional Mexican food. They have multiple locations, this is one located downtown:

Cielito Querido 

This is one of many good coffee places. Please do not go to Starbucks, you can get much better coffee elsewhere. I recommend trying cafe de olla (it's sweetened already don't add sugar) or chamoyada de tamarindo (not coffee it's a frappe drink made of tamarindo which is sweet and spicy)

Café Punta Del Cielo

I really like their coffee, I recommend you buy some to go (you can also find it at most grocery stores):

Los Bisquets Obregon

Another popular chain similar to Sanborns/Vips, I like it better but is not as common. They also have a great café lechero if you can not make it to la Parroquia Veracruzana. This is towards Polanco, so not as close to Reforma.

Thursday, July 14, 2022

Trip to Portugal and Spain (Days 10): Lisbon

 Getting back

We didn't want to risk getting a flight delay or cancellation on our way to Lisbon so we decided to fly back at least one day before our flight back to the US. I found a direct flight from Valencia to Lisbon in the evening. We also bought the family fare which includes checked in luggage and because we bought this a few weeks ahead of time we got a very low fare of about $50 per person. 

Jeronimos Monastery

We had not visited the Monastery so we took an Uber that way. We purchased our tickets ahead of time. The monastery is gorgeous from the inside so I do recommend going it if you have time. You can also get a nice view of the inside of the church of Santa Maria de Belem while you are there.



After the visit, we got in line to enter the Church of Santa Maria de Belem which is next door. That entrance is free, and you do have to exit the Monastery in order to get in. The line wasn't too bad and it is also worth a visit. The tomb of Vasco de Gama is inside the church, you will see it when your way out the church.

Santa Maria de Belem Church (view from inside the Monastery)

Vasco de Gama tomb

Torre de Belem

We couldn't live Lisbon without visiting Torre de Belem, which is 1km away from the Monastery. We read that the best view of the tower is from the outside, so we chose not to enter.


Where to eat

We had so many places where we want to eat our second to last meal in Lisbon. One of them was Ramiro which was highly recommended but we chose to leave that for our next visit. A second choice was Portugalia Cervejaira which has multiple locations. We ended up going for a less conventional location which turned out to be a great choice. The name of the restaurant is Rosa da Rua. This was a small buffet restaurant and we definitely recommend it.

Church of Sao Roque

We had been exploring most of East hills of downtown Lisbon where the Cathedral is located, but we had not been on the west hills, which also have some very nice views from Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara. We also discovered by chance the Church of Sao Roque which is one of the earliest Jesuit churches in the world.

View from Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara


Church of Sao Roque

St Anthony's Church

We then headed into St Anthony's Church which we had seen from the outside only. This is on the east hills of downtown a block away from the Cathedral. This church was built on the site where St Anthony of Padua was born.


Heading back

Afterwards we chose to have our last dinner at Fabrica de Nata and we stopped for one more sunset at Cais das Colunas before heading back to our hotel. Our flight departed the next morning. Luckily the US had just dropped their COVID test requirement so that was one less logistic to worry about. The airport lines were not too bad, including the Passport Control line, which was about 20 minutes, but something to account for.

This concludes our trip. We really enjoyed this visit to Portugal and Spain. We would certainly love to go back to Lisbon in the near future. I would say it is an underrated tourist destination that deserves more praise. I hope you enjoyed my tips and hope you are able to leverage some recommendations. Do not hesitate to comment or ask for more details if you are venturing that way!

<< Days 8-9 (Valencia) | Trip Itinerary








Trip to Portugal and Spain (Days 8-9): Valencia

Getting to Valencia

Why Valencia if it's on the other end of the Iberia Peninsula? Typical Spain tours would go from Seville into Granada, Cordoba, Madrid, etc. One of the main reasons for this trip was to visit my sister and her family who lives in a small town 1.5 hrs away from Valencia. We were initially going to take a 5hr drive through Spain to visit her, but they decided to meet us in Valencia. I found a direct flight from Seville with Vueling. Vueling had a nice family fare which includes checked and carry on in luggage in addition to seat selection with the ability to make changes (for $70 USD per person).

Sightseeing

Our hotel was near the Aquarium, so we ended up walking via a walkway that goes through the Museum of Arts and Science and takes you all the way downtown (3km away). 

Hemisferic

We then decided to get lunch. It was a little early for lunch so some places were closed. We ended up going to Restaurante Alma, which had a decent paella.

In the afternoon we spent some time in the hotel pool and later met with some friends and did some more walking. For dinner we went to another place near hotel: La Taberna. They had very good tapas and food was pretty good. I was surprised that they had under 4 stars rating in Google, but looks like the main complaint was that it was overpriced.

Catedral de Valencia

The next day we went to visit the Cathedral of Valencia which is one of top destinations we wanted to visit because of the Holy Chalice. It is a beautiful church with a museum inside it. And of course we had to climb the Micalet (tower) which has a really nice view of Valencia.

Holy Chalice


View from the top of the Micalet


We then stopped to buy some turrones and then had lunch at es.paella, where we tried something I had not had before: fideua, which is essentially a paella but made with noodles instead of rice. It is now one of our favorite family dishes now.



Despite this a very short visit, we really liked and enjoyed Valencia. It is a very modern and beautiful city and we will certainly be back to visit with more time.